What are the signs you’re getting in too deep?
I’m thinking about (actually, planning on) completing a project for the 5-board bench contest that Charles Neil is having on his site.
I have what I think is a very nice design for a 5 board bench (and my daughter agrees – she wants it : ) but doing this will require me to go outside my comfort zone. And most likely my skill zone as well.
So the question of the moment is this: how do you tell when you’re trying to make a jump over a chasm and not just stepping over a small stream?
This project will have me making dovetails on a slant (and I’ve not done dovetails), gluing up a panel of contrasting woods (if I can find enough clamps : ), and then, in general, just assembling a piece of furniture. All new things to me.
Thoughts?
3 comments
Ken, can you get a design done to look at? Racking would be a huge concern.
OK, so here’s a semi-scale drawing of what I’m planning on making:
I’m calling it Asymmetrical Symmetry.
Here’s some info I typed up about it:
This is a design for the Charles Neil 5 board bench contest in the summer of 2010. The 5 boards are the top, 2 legs, and 2 aprons. Glue ups are permitted and only count as 1 board once glued.
I had this design in mind, at least as far as the general layout is concerned. Then I went to the box store to see what wood was available. Turns out the only wood wide enough to do in 1 board at the box store was pine. And not the “high grade” pine either.
Since it looked like I was going to have to glue up boards to get one wide enough anyhow, I started looking at alternatives. My choices, without going a further distance or to a specialty store were oak, poplar, aspen, and alder.
I understand that the alder is going to be a challenge when it comes to finishing due to the blotch issues, but I like the clear whiteness of it. I thought of using the oak as the contrasting wood, but there was too much texture contrast for what I was visualizing. Aspen is a very fine grained wood and oak is much coarser. Just not what I was feeling for this project, so I chose the alder.
The decision to have the center stripe be smaller was done on purpose (that is, not dictated by the available wood.) I played with it in the store with wider aspen and narrower alder, but I liked this combination the best.
One idea that I sketched up and decided against was to have the top and legs in one color and the aprons in a contrasting color. It might still be a good alternative, but I liked this striped theme a bit better.
One idea I’ve considered but, at least for the moment, have decided against was to have the wide side of the apron dovetailed into the leg. I’m not sure how it would look and, perhaps more importantly, I’m not sure I quite have the skill to pull it off. It’s probably better that I get at least somewhat comfortable with normal dovetails before getting fancy.
A couple of detail notes:
the short end of the apron will form a 90° angle with the leg
the short ends of the bench will be at the same angle as the opposite leg (same angle as the short end of the apron.
glue blocks will be used to fasten the top to the aprons and where the aprons join the legs
epoxy will be used to seal the bottom of the legs
General Finishes clear exterior finish
if I thought I could drill a 3” hole straight through, I’d consider adding a dowel just above where the leg cutout will end when gluing up those pieces to help prevent a split there.
I can see this being done with other contrasting woods (maple/walnut, etc) and with the contrast being done with the opposite field.
Ken, that’s a great approach to the challenge.
I am wondering if the opposite corners with the least amount of side support will suffer from outward, spreading pressures. I am trying to imagine if all legs were setup with the same sideboard support, how would it work.
You’re onto something though. What about similar arched pieces that cross and interlock through the center. Keepin’ the grain oriented properly would help a lot.
Looks fun either way! Thx for doing to sketches.
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